Framing
This video shows how I make my frames.
(I used off-cuts of moulding to make this
10 minute film which were unfortunately
slightly warped so please forgive the mitres!)
​
​
Why is presentation and framing important
You have worked hard to create your artwork, it deserves to be framed well.
A frame finishes the work, a frame that has been chosen to compliment the artwork will be part of the whole composition. It will look professional on the back as well as the front and make the painting more desirable.
Bad framing devalues the work and will put off buyers. As the photo shows gaps between the backboard and frame will also allow insects to creep inside.
​
Framing tips
Choose a frame for the artwork not for the space where it will hang.
This is a photograph 'Impressions' taken by Sally Edwards. The frame has been matched to one of the darker tones in the image, the mount gives space between the image and frame, see how the image is the focus.
A large mount also allows for a more ornate frame without over powering the artwork.
​
Framing materials - behind glass
Backing board, barrier board, artwork substrate, mount board and tapes should all be acid free products. This prevents yellowing and deterioration.
Glass
Float glass is the low cost option. Non reflective glass is good for works that are facing a window or door.
Tab gun and tabs
This tool is used to attach the back board into the frame.
Tapes
Brown tape - for backing pictures.
Hinging tape - for attaching backing board to mount board.
Single sided tape - to attach the artwork to mount board.
Fixings
Nickel D Rings and polyester hanging cord or hanging wire.
Black frames
A black frame can look effective but be careful that it doesn't dominate the painting or artwork. The image shown is how I used to frame my work. I was influenced by the art publishing company I used to work with, they framed everything in ornate, heavy frames, suitable for the commercial market.
Black frames can be difficult to hang in a group exhibition and customers can be put off by black frames.
Framing pastels
This diagram shows the order in which the boards and paper are placed within the frame.
Fixative
It is advisable not to use fixative spray on your pastel drawings as the colours dull and any highlights loose their brightness.
Spacer
An extra mount board is included between the outer mount board and the artwork. As you can see the spacer is cut larger than the visible mount, this is so any loose pastel falls down between the spacer and the mount.
Traditional frame
Framing materials - Acrylic and oil
Framing acrylic and oil paintings are far less involved than framing glass protected artworks. Because canvases are very often not square they can be difficult to set well in a float / tray frame
Traditional frames
When selecting the frame make sure the moulding is deep enough for the canvas or substrate to fit into.
Board - (diagram 1) the frame is attached using tabs then finished with brown tape to keep the back tidy.
​
Canvas - (diagram 2) will use tabs but brown tape will not stick well so leave off the tape.
​
Tray or float frames
Board - (diagram 3) batten is glued to the back of the artwork the batten being wide enough to bridge the gap between the back of the moulding and the painting. Then screw as per video then use brown tape to finish.
​
Canvas - (diagram 4) The video at the top of the page demonstrates this method.
​
Protection
Varnish your paintings to protect them from ultra violet light, dust and dirt with either:
Spray varnish - for acrylic and charcoal and multi media work
Brush varnish - for just oils or acrylic paintings.​
Float/tray frame
Diagram 1
Diagram 3
Diagram 2
Diagram 4
Pricing your artwork
When I first started wanting to sell my work I didn't know what price to put on the paintings. Here are two methods I used to get started.
-
I mentioned to my husband my problem of what price should my paintings be, I didn't expect an answer but he came out with a random number without thinking about the product. I replied with 'oh that's far too much' so he picked another number again it was too much, this went on until he came out with a ridiculously low figure, I said 'that's far too low' we raised the figure until I decided on a price I wouldn't go below. I was happy.
-
Look on the internet to find work similar to yours in size, medium and framing then price accordingly. This will be the market price.
​
Once you have a suitable price you can use this calculation to price other work to have uniform pricing system. You may want to have two calculations one for small work up to 60cm and another calculation for larger work.
​
e.g Previous work
- Price £200
- Width x Length - 30cm x 30cm = 900cm squared
- £200 divided by 900 = £0.22 per cm
​
New Work
- Width x Length - 40cm x 40cm = 1600cm squared
- Calculated price - £0.22 x 1600 = £352
SUPPLIERS
​
Here is a list of suppliers I use, I have given a rough idea of their products but I suggest you visit their websites to find out more:
​
www.allaboutframing.co.uk - Framing tools and framing hardware
www.bramptonframing.com - Mouldings, glass, boards, tapes, hardware and artist mounts and packs
www.pictureframesexpress.co.uk - Ready made frames
www.wessexpictures.com - Mouldings, glass, boards, tapes and hardware
www.salisbury-glass.com - Cut to size float glass and non-reflective glass
www.artdiscount.co.uk - Art materials, canvases and canvas boards
www.jacksonsart.com - Ready made float/tray frames, art materials
www.cassart.co.uk - Art materials